New York Fashion Week Men’s Day Hints at the Evolution of Menswear

What will menswear look like in 2021? As cultural ideas about what is considered masculine shift, so do traditional ideas of dress. Take the latest couture season as proof: Bespoke menswear found itself woven throughout collections from Valentino, Giambattista Valli, and Fendi during a week that is usually exclusive to womenswear. 

The emerging designers at New York Fashion Week Men’s Day perhaps exemplify the changing points of view about menswear best. Many of them offered genderless collections, while others debuted womenswear lines alongside their menswear. Others found inspirations in the past to lead us to a more harmonious future. Here, six new names to watch. 

Photo: Courtesy of Chelsea Grays

Chelsea Grays

Why would anyone want to relive the trials of 2020? For Chelsea Grays, the woeful year had a few silver linings. “With the drastic changes of 2020, it showed me that nothing is forever and to expect the

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Ella Emhoff, stepdaughter of US Vice President Kamala Harris, makes her modelling debut for Proenza Schouler - Proenza Schouler

Ella Emhoff, stepdaughter of US Vice President Kamala Harris, makes her modelling debut for Proenza Schouler – Proenza Schouler

Despite a ragged turn-out by big names, there were some rays of hope at New York fashion week, which came to an end on Thursday. Re-branded the American Collections by an exhausted-looking Tom Ford via a publicised Zoom call on the final day of proceedings, the designer postponed his presentation due to a Covid outbreak at his LA studio. The CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America) chief promised faithfully to return to New York in September though.

Meanwhile, Ralph Lauren, Carolina Herrera, Oscar de la Renta and Marc Jacobs all opted out of NYFW’s scheduled week. Yet bold, beautiful offerings still shook us home-front-row journalists awake, with Gabriela Hearst and Ulla Johnson stealing the crowns from the old-school absentees.

Hearst and Johnson showed digital presentations similar in scope and model

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New York Men’s Day

New York Men’s Day continued its mission to highlight the future of menswear. Several designers stood out in particular, namely Chelsea Grays, STAN, and Timo Weiland.

Chelsea Grays’ collection was an homage to 2020 with references to police brutality, protesting, coronavirus, and voting. There was a rugged, dystopian approach to the clothing—Mad Max: Fury Road meets high fashion streetwear.

Designer Tristan Detwiler of STAN created a genderless collection based around quilting. Detwiler, who is a member of The Bumann Quilting group, an organization dedicated to the art of preserving quilting, created maximalist pattern garments that were ripe with the history of generations of quilters.

Timo Weiland created an aesthetic of polished leisure fit for a Zoom call, but still comfortable for home. While some might think any reason to dress up is lost, Weiland reminded us that formality has just taken a new approach.

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New York Fashion Week Already Has Breakout Stars. Will You Wear Them?

Kimberly Goldson

Kimberly Goldson began designing her new collection right after she learned that Saks had picked up her eponymous clothing line. After nearly a decade in business, her dream had come true. So, as she told The Daily Beast last week, her fall collection “reflects where [the brand] has been—hidden in plain sight, but people are finally getting to know who we are. We feel seen, but we’re still moving incognito.”

That, along with the calls to “support Black designers” in the wake of the death of George Floyd last summer inspired Goldson to create her “Stealth Print.” She hid her gilded “KG” logo into bold, geometric prints to symbolize how the brand had “hid in plain sight” before activists found them. It’s not logomania, exactly—you won’t notice the letters unless you look very, very closely. Ultimately, the expertly-tailored pieces stand on their own. It’s a great

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